Lisa Grainger (The Daily Telegraph)

The world we explored every day was hard, barren and alien, the world we encountered at night couldn’t have been warmer or more welcoming.

After each day of intense exploration, we’d go back knowing that not only was there an iced drink waiting for us on a beach or on the side of a dune, but a warm shower under the stars, a simple dinner served by gentle smiling Omani men around a candlelit table and a soft bed, with fresh white sheets, to collapse into. And best of all to go to sleep to: the sound of silence…