Four dolphins swim up alongside – although they scarper when we flop into the water. When we return to our tents, which have proper beds, carpets, stacks of fluffy towels and robes, they are lit with hurricane lamps. The sun is setting on the Jebel Qara, the mountain range that runs parallel to the coast.
A long table, cloth held in place by ornate miniature weights, has been set up on the beach and is surrounded by flaming torches and bedecked in candles. Frankincense smoke billows across from a little charcoal burner. It’s all quite overwhelmingly beautiful for our first night…
We set off early, heading west from Salalah along the coastline. Flamingos stand in the shallows of Mughsail Beach, a three-mile stretch of white sand with high cliffs, draped in morning mist, at either end. Mike tells us an old Arab saying: “Rise early, for the hour after dawn is borrowed from paradise.””
Click here to read Tom Robbin’s full article in The Observer