Dom Joly (The Sunday Times)

Chasing shadows in Oman

Rise early, for the hour after dawn is borrowed from paradise. So says an Arab proverb – and, within 24 hours of my touchdown in Oman, I am a believer.

I’m on the shores of the Indian Ocean, an hour north of Mirbat, first staging post on my expedition into the Empty Quarter. Our “desert camp” lounges across a silken beach, and I fell in love with it the moment we arrived yesterday evening. Each of our party has a luxurious private tent complete with en suite bathroom.

In the middle is a communal space where we can loll about and smoke a nargileh, before sitting down to a candlelit meal.

The morning is the clincher, though. I rise unspeakably early for a dip in the clear blue ocean, just yards from my tent. Diving into the surf, I immediately find myself buzzed by four dolphins, keen for playtime.

At the mouth of the bay, I can see huge sea turtles being tossed around in the breakers, while along the beach hundreds of crabs busy themselves building a boulevard of miniature sand pyramids. It’s quite a swim.

I’m not sure what Wilfred Thesiger would have made of such pleasures, however. I have come to the Empty Quarter to follow Thesiger’s shadow, after reading all about the place as a boy in his travel classic, Arabian Sands. The book tells of the great adventurer’s epic journey on foot across the largest sand desert in the world, a region that spills out across the hazy borders of Oman, Yemen and Saudi, occupying a quarter of the Arabian peninsula.

Other articles

Lorem ipsum dolor sit amet, consectetur

The Arabian Dhow dates back to the 15th Century, built by hand out of wood, only a few boat yards remain that still use this ancient technique. Many used to use sails but now most...

News
We will be launching a new product "Ibra by Hud Hud Travels" and dabbling in the yachting industry with one of our trusted partners, she has been under full refurb since November 2021...
News

One of 50 enriching experiences offered by HSBC Jade to their clients. A unique “glamping” experience tailored for HSBC Jade clients aimed at guests who are looking for an immersive experience into Omani culture and...

Press
Steve Walker is a professional photographer keen on landscape and travel photos wherever he has visited. Steve and his lovely wife Jane visited Oman in 2019 and did a full week trip with Hud Hud...
Press
As Oman continues to open up to the culturally curious, Alice B-B embarks on a singular adventure – brief but stretched to bursting with thought-provoking encounters – across empty sands and along pristine coasts....
Press
It feels like Oman has been popping up as a “must see” destination recently, so upon the recommendation of friends we started our journey through the Middle East in Muscat. Oman wasn’t as I expected...
Press